Car maintenance is important for keeping your car running smoothly. Even if you’re not a mechanic, there are some basic repairs that everyone should know when you find your vehicle on Autozin and then vehicle breaks down to prevent costly damage and inconvenience. This article will teach you ten of them.

1. Changing a Flat Tire

If you find yourself with a flat tire, don’t panic. Changing a tire is not difficult, as long as you have the right tools. You’ll need a jack and a lug wrench, but simply follow the instructions in your owner’s manual once you have them. 

To start:

1.     Loosen the lug nuts on the flat tire with the lug wrench (but don’t remove them).
2.     Use the jack to lift the car off the ground so that you can remove the flat tire and replace it with the spare.
3.     Once the new tire is in place, tighten the lug nuts back up (following the instructions in your owner’s manual).
4.     Lower the car back down to the ground, and you’re good to go!

Of course, it’s always best to avoid getting a flat tire in the first place. Be sure to check your tires regularly for any signs of wear and tear, and keep them inflated to the proper pressure. If you take these precautions, you’ll be much less likely to find yourself stranded on the side of the road. 

2. Refilling Windshield Wiper Fluid

If your windshield wipers are leaving streaks on the glass, it’s time to refill the windshield wiper fluid. This is a simple repair that anyone can do.

Locate the windshield wiper fluid reservoir under the hood of your car and unscrew the cap. Pour in the new fluid until the reservoir is full, then screw the cap back on. That’s all there is to it!

3. Checking and Replacing Fuses

Fuses are designed to blow if your car has an electrical problem. If one of your car’s accessories – like the headlights or radio – suddenly stops working, it may be because a fuse has blown. 

To check if this is the problem, open up your car’s fuse box (usually located under the dash) and take a look at the diagram. This will tell you which fuse corresponds to which accessory. Find the blown a fuse and replace it with a new one of the same amperage. 

4. Replacing a Headlight Bulb

If one of your headlights has burned out, you’ll need to replace the headlight bulb. Fortunately, this is not a difficult repair. Simply find the old bulb in your headlight assembly and unscrew it. Then, screw in the new bulb, and you’re all done!

5. Jump-Starting a Dead Battery

If your car doesn’t start, it may be because the battery is dead. If this is the case, you may be able to jump-start it using another car’s battery. 

First, ensure both cars have their engines off and the keys out of the ignition. Then, connect one battery’s positive (red) terminal to the positive terminal of the other. Next, do the same for the negative (black) terminals. Finally, start the working car’s engine and let it run for a few minutes. Then, try starting your car. If it starts, you can disconnect the jumper cables and be on your way!

Of course, if your battery is truly dead, jumping it may not work. In that case, you’ll need to replace it.

6. Adding Engine Oil

If your car is low on oil, adding more as soon as possible is important. Low oil levels can cause serious engine damage, so keeping the oil at the proper level is best.

Locate the dipstick under the hood to check your car’s oil level and pull it out. Wipe it off with a rag, and then insert it back into the tube. Pull it out again and check the level. You’ll need to add more oil if it’s below the “full” line.

To do this, simply remove the oil fill cap (usually located near the dipstick) and pour in new oil until the level is back up to where it should be. Then, screw the cap back on, and you’re all set! 

7. Checking Tire Pressure

It’s important to keep your tires inflated to the proper pressure. Not only does this improve gas mileage, but it also helps to prevent flat tires. Fortunately, checking tire pressure is a simple repair that anyone can do.

Here’s how you do it:

1.     Locate the valve stem on each tire (it looks like a small metal cap).
2.     Use a tire gauge to check the pressure in each tire and add air if necessary.
3.     Consult your owner’s manual for the correct tire pressure for your car.

8. Adding Coolant

If your car is low on coolant, adding more as soon as possible is important. Coolant helps to keep your engine from overheating, so it’s important to keep the level full.

To check your coolant level:

1.     Locate the reservoir under the hood and unscrew the cap.
2.     Check the level and add more if necessary.
3.     Use the correct type of coolant for your car. You can either check online or refer to the car manual on the type of coolant you need to use on your car.

9. Changing spark plugs.

If you notice your car is starting to run a little rough, one of the first things you should check is the spark plugs. Over time, they can become fouled with carbon deposits and need to be replaced. It’s a pretty simple process that anyone can do with a little time and the right tools. Here’s how you do it.

1.     Locate the spark plugs in your engine (consult your owner’s manual if you’re unsure where they are) and unscrew them with a spark plug wrench.
2.     Screw in the new plugs by hand until they’re snug.
3.     Use the wrench to give them each a quarter turn more.

That’s it – you’re all done!

10. Checking/Changing the Cabin Air Filter

The cabin air filter helps to keep the air inside your car clean and free of pollen, dust, and other airborne contaminants. Over time, it can become clogged with dirt and must be replaced. Fortunately, this is a simple repair that anyone can do.

1.     Locate the cabin air filter (consult your owner’s manual if you’re unsure where it is) and remove it from its housing.
2.     Inspect it and replace it if necessary.
3.     Insert the new filter into the housing, and you’re all done!

Conclusion 

There you have it – ten simple car repairs that anyone can do. By taking care of these things regularly, you can help keep your car in good shape and avoid more serious (and expensive) problems down the road. So get out there and start fixing those cars!

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Motor oil keeps a car running – if it runs out of lubricant, engine damage usually follows quickly. Because of the abundance of different motor oils that are offered in workshops and at petrol stations, many drivers sweat when choosing the right oil. Especially novice drivers have a few questions when it comes to engine care: Which oil does my car need? Where can I find which oil my car needs? What if I’m wrong? In the guide you’ll comprehend how to determine which oil goes in your car, where to find the relevant information, and why choosing the right motor oil is so important.

What Characterizes the Excellent Engine?

To do this, the engine should have cooled down or even better be cold. Your vehicle must be on a level surface. The oil level must be between the two marks located on the dipstick. If the level does not reach the lower mark, you must always top up with oil. Oil performs 2 important tasks in the engine: on the one hand, it lubricates the engine so that it runs smoothly, and on the other hand, it cools the pistons, valves, and cylinders. Motor oil contains additives, so-called additives, which improve its performance. For the oil to be able to fulfill its tasks smoothly in the truest sense of the word, these additives must not be worn out. Otherwise, there will be an accumulation of metal particles in the oil. Unfortunately, this wear and tear progress with every kilometer. As a result, the lubricating properties deteriorate, the heat is no longer redistributed and the valves wear out faster.

How Does the Driver Know That His Engine Needs New Oil?

A small red oilcan is one of the most important warning lights in a car. It lets you know when the oil needs changing. Don’t wait that long, but use the replacement intervals that are in the car manufacturer’s manual as a guide. Many garages also stick a note in the car (for example on the inside of the driver’s door) stating the mileage at which the next oil change is due. If you drive frequently or almost exclusively in city traffic, you should go to the oil change more often because the engine is subjected to more stress. You can find more information here.

Changing the oil is easy: your car is placed on the lift and a container is placed under the car. The oil drain screw is then opened: the oil runs into the container, after which it is disposed of in an environmentally friendly manner. The professionals usually use this opportunity to change the sealing rings and the oil filter. The fresh motor oil is refilled, and the oil change interval display is reset, and done! The oil change works best when you have warmed up the car on the way to the workshop: The oil then becomes thinner and drains off more quickly and completely. Thanks to the faster oil flow, residues are also better removed from the lines. Once the used oil is caught, they change the crankcase cover gasket and then close it again to pour in new oil. Then the oil filter is changed, which is always done with an oil change; an old filter could contaminate the new oil. Lastly, it updates the oil change indicator, which alerts you when your vehicle requires a new service.

What Should the Car’s Owner Comprehend About Oil Changing?

Firstly, to function properly, the various parts of your engine need to be lubricated. Without special oil, the mechanical parts of the engine would rub directly against each other, causing serious damage. Secondly, when you change the oil, the old engine oil is replaced with new oil. The oil filter is also replaced on this occasion. Thirdly, these processes ensure that the engine not only remains in good operating condition but also retains its full potential. Fourth, changing the oil will improve the life of the engine and all the parts that make it up.  Fifth, regular oil changes will help you reduce your vehicle’s fuel consumption. The oil change must be carried out on all vehicles with a combustion engine. An electric car is therefore not affected. However, the oil must also be changed on a hybrid vehicle, as it has a combustion engine and an electric motor.

The oil change is part of the vehicle maintenance that is carried out at the general inspection, but it can also be done at shorter intervals, especially if the vehicle is older or you drive a lot. The frequency of an oil change depends on the engine and the model. Only the service booklet can tell you what intervals you should keep when changing the oil. In between, it is advisable to check the oil level about every 2,000 km or before a long journey. This check ensures that the engine has an adequate level of fluid, thus ruling out a possible leak that should be repaired quickly. Pore over here: jeepzine.com.

Motor oil is permanently exposed to external influences such as heat, cold, and moisture. In addition, some oil is regularly lost when working in the engine compartment, so the level gradually decreases. And the less lubricant, the more friction points. All this affects the viscosity of the lubricant over time. The more liquid the oil loses, the more viscous it becomes. The increasing concentration of foreign substances such as metal chips, soot, and must also have a negative impact. However, as the viscosity increases, it soon becomes unable to adequately fulfill its role as a lubricant. The friction between the individual engine parts such as the pistons, crankshaft, etc. increases. However, the wear and tear of the oil cannot be determined so easily from a time point of view, since every engine works differently and is subject to different loads. For this reason, the manufacturers’ recommendations are regularly based on the mileage of the vehicles.

You Should Not Stubbornly Rely on The Information in The Vehicle Manual If You Are Wondering How Often You Need to Change the Oil

You should regularly check the oil level and the condition of the engine oil yourself. To do this, use the dipstick in the engine compartment. Insert it into the oil container and pull it out again. On the one hand, you can now use the markings on the dipstick to check whether there is still enough engine oil. On the other hand, you can examine the following properties when removing the oil from the stick on a light-colored cloth: What color is the oil? What is the viscosity? Does it already smell badly burned?

A dark brown to black color, the formation of lumps, and a strong sooty smell can be an indication that the oil in your vehicle should be changed as soon as possible. We hope you enjoyed this article!

The post 5 Things to Know About Oil Changes for Your Car appeared first on FLE Online.

What is the suspension of the car, know everyone who has received at least a little experience in driving, and only beginners have only a vague idea about this important unit. But exactly this set of details creates those driving conditions, which we got used to calling comfortable. However, it can become the reason for some inconveniences on cross-country terrain. So, what is a suspension? And what top 6 signs your car suspension needs repairing?

The Car’s Suspension as Its Foundation

So it is, this node or, as mentioned above, the construction of a number of parts, connects the car body to the wheels, and this connection can be both rigid and elastic, depending on the installed elements. For example, the rear dependent suspension of the car, the device of which is characterized by simplicity, keeps on two cylindrical springs and is additionally attached to 4 longitudinal levers. However, such a design has considerable weight and therefore will affect the smooth running. But let’s be consistent. The assembly we are considering is divided by a number of features into the following types: multilever and double lever, active, torsion, dependent and independent. In addition, there is a division into the front and rear suspensions.

To begin with, let’s look at the double wishbone and multi-lever types of car suspensions. The first version has short upper and long lower cross-arms, on which it is attached to the body. In addition, there is a cylindrical elastic element between the fasteners, which softens jolts on rough terrain. However, this scheme has significant disadvantages – the lateral movement of the wheel is too small, which affects the lateral stability and, consequently, accelerates the wear of the tires. The plus side is that each wheel is independent, and due to this the car is more stable on irregularities, maintaining quality traction with the road.

The multilever scheme is a complicated version of the two-lever with all its advantages and differs by the presence of ball joints, which increase the softness of movement, and silent blocks (pivot bearings), which it is attached to the frame. These blocks provide noise isolation of the body from the wheels. Among other things, add here the longitudinal and transverse adjustments possible for each independent element separately. However, all these advantages increase the cost of the device, as a result of which such units are put only on executive class cars, which explains their perfect control on the road, as well as the softness of contact with the road surface.

Active and Torsion Types of Car Suspensions

A very interesting suspension, the name of which speaks for itself – torsion, which in French means twisting. It is this property that best characterizes the torsion scheme. Its elastic element is made of alloyed steel, which after a number of treatments acquires a very interesting ability to twist around the longitudinal axis of the rod. It can have a square or round cross-section, be solid, or assembled from separate plates, in any case, the result is similar to the straightened spring, but with better characteristics.

Torsion is installed both longitudinally and transversely, and in the first case on trucks, and in the second – on cars. The advantages of torsion types of car suspensions have the following: the lightness compared to spring-mounted elastic elements, compactness. Thanks to these elastic parts, you can easily adjust the height of the road clearance by pulling on the torsion rods with a special motor and thus raising the body. A similar device is available in many vehicles, and it allows the vehicle to be lifted on three wheels to replace the fourth wheel without the need for a jack.

What Is Better – A Dependent or Independent Suspension Scheme of The Car?

In fact, today the dependent scheme is becoming increasingly obsolete and is used in those few brands and models of vehicles, which have been produced for many decades and have not yet been removed from production. If we talk about Jeep suspension, its main feature is that when you hit a bump with one wheel, you get a change in the angle of the entire axle. The comfort of driving in such conditions is minimal, and the advantage is the simplicity of such design and, accordingly, its low cost. Another option is the dependent scheme de Dion, which exists almost since the beginning of the automobile industry. In it, the main gear crankcase is attached independently from the axle.

The independent scheme of car suspension has clear advantages in the sense that each wheel moves on rough terrain on its own, without affecting the other. One such option we have already considered is a double-wishbone system. Another, no less interesting example is the McPherson scheme, used since 1965 when it was first installed on the Peugeot-204. This suspension is based on one single lever, a block stabilizing transverse stability, and another block consisting of a telescopic shock absorber in conjunction with a coil spring. This variant is worse than the double-wishbone since the McPherson scheme changes the camber quite appreciably at high suspension travel, as well as there is no isolation of road vibrations.

Suspension Malfunctions: Signs

All existing types of suspensions are subject to failures, especially if we talk about the operation of cars in harsh conditions of our homeland. Malfunctions arise from overloading of the car, poor adjustment, and elementary wear and tear. Careless driving is often the cause of failure.

Signs

1. Noises and knocks in the suspension can be called the main signs of failure. They occur with faulty shock absorbers or hydraulic struts, worn silent blocks, also with worn hub bearings.

1. Stability and the need to constantly steer when driving straight ahead, uneven tire wear, too much draft, and many other things are also symptoms of problems with the car’s suspension.

1. The most common problem with a car’s suspension is broken silent blocks.

1. Disrupted operation of the shock strut due to overloading or overheating in hot weather, contributes to the loss of the shock absorber fluid.

1. Strong shocks to the body when driving over bumps indicate failure of both the telescopic shock absorber strut and the elastic element.

1. The best tool for adjusting suspensions is the accelerator pedal. On any car, it is the competent work on the accelerator pedal that allows you to perfectly control the weight distribution on the curve arc. If you have a problem with the pedals, change your suspension and pedals immediately.

Bottom Line

From an engineering standpoint, traction depends primarily on the proper operation of the vehicle’s suspension. How can a driver improve the suspension of his car? Is it necessary to put sports shocks on your car? Is it possible to drive a car efficiently with factory suspensions? What is “efficient driving”? Today we found that out and we hope that it is clear to you.  And if you have more questions, be sure to write them in the comments!

The post Top 6 Signs Your Car Suspension Needs Repairing appeared first on FLE Online.

Towing a car is the manipulation of towing F150 using the traction force of another vehicle and connecting parts. If your vehicle breaks down on the road, you can get to the nearest service center with the help of a tow truck or other vehicle that will perform the towing. To ensure safe travel, it is important to know and follow the rules for towing your vehicle. So, let’s find out how to flat tow an F150 4×4!

General Rules for Towing A Car

A car that is being towed is considered a fully functioning road user. It is compulsory for the driver inside the vehicle to have: a driver’s license, a vehicle registration certificate and an insurance policy. The towed vehicle must be equipped with license plates. How to properly tow a vehicle is described in the traffic regulations. The vehicle being towed must have a passing light and the towed vehicle must have an emergency warning light. If it is faulty, an emergency stop sign must be used.

The permissible towing speed must not exceed 50 km/h. The length of a rigid coupling is up to 4 meters, and a flexible coupling up to 6 meters. Each metre of a flexible coupling must have special signal markings measuring 200×200 mm with red and white stripes (50 mm wide) placed diagonally.

The rules for towing with a flexible coupling require that the brakes and steering controls of the towed vehicle are in good working order. When using a rigid coupling, the towed vehicle must have good steering control. The driver must be seated inside the towed vehicle. It is allowed to have passengers in the cabin (the rule applies to passenger vehicles). The driver and passengers are not allowed in the passenger compartment when the vehicle is partially loaded on the platform.

What Does It Take to Tow A Car?

A common way to tow a car is with a flexible hitch. This will require a sturdy rope with no mechanical damage and a secure latch. Ribbon cables with all-metal hooks are ideal. Metal ropes can damage the body and paintwork if broken. The cable is secured diagonally.

Before towing begins, vehicle drivers should coordinate with each other on speeds and ways to communicate along the way. The following signs are popular means of communication between drivers:

• flashing headlights – forced stop;
• horn blinking – to attract attention;
• turning on – planned maneuver;
• light pressure on the brake pedal by the driver of the towing car – warning of the planned braking.

Ways to Tow A Car

There are three ways to tow a car:

• Flexible hitch. A kapron or metal rope is used. Towing with a flexible hitch is not permitted if the steering or brakes are not working properly. Failure to do so may result in a serious accident.
• Rigid hitch. It is a metal construction in the form of a triangle. Thick metal is used for its production. This method is more common for trucks. The rules for towing a car on a rigid hitch allow towing vehicles with faulty brakes. Vehicles with steering problems are prohibited. Prohibited for drivers with less than two years’ experience.
• Partial loading. Is used when the car has no steering, or has an automatic transmission. This method of towing applies to trucks and cars. It is ideal for cars after accidents and with non-working brakes or engines, or when further movement is impossible because of a malfunction.

A truck with a special body and a powerful engine must be used in order to fully load the vehicle onto the loading platform. The method of loading is not regulated.

Lights When Towing With The Best Shocks For Towing

The rules of the road require that the vehicle being towed (behind) be highlighted on the road:

• An emergency light (hazard warning light) or a stop sign.
• The emergency stop sign may only be used if the emergency light sign is faulty.
• The sign itself is then attached to the rear of the towed vehicle.

The Parking Lights. When Driving at Night or In Tunnels

In addition, do not forget that in 2022, all moving vehicles must have daytime running lights, dipped headlights or fog lights on. In other words, one of these types of lights must be on both the vehicle being towed and the vehicle being towed.

How to Tow A Car with An Automatic Transmission Correctly?

To prevent accidents on the road, you should know how to tow a car with an automatic transmission and variator. Towing such vehicles is carried out with full or partial loading of the drive axle on the platform. In order to minimize the negative impact on the gearbox, the selector should be in the N position. Permissible driving speed is up to 30 km/h. The maximum distance is up to 40 km. The use of a flexible/hard hitch is permitted if specified in the service booklet.     Variator vehicles are towed with full or partial load. All-wheel-drive automatic transmissions must be towed by full loading method.

Peculiarities of Towing A Mechanically Driven Car

It is always possible to tow a car equipped with a manual transmission. To do this, you will need to engage neutral gear and keep your foot on the brake pedal while driving. Towing can be done by all available methods.

Bottom Line

Vehicles with automatic transmissions are not recommended for towing with the engine turned off. This is because the automatic transmission has a pump that does not work when the engine is switched off. Because of this, the parts of the transmission are subjected to severe wear and tear as a result of insufficient lubrication. In this case, the best option is to use a tow truck.

The post How to Flat Tow an F150 4×4: Step-by-Step Guide appeared first on FLE Online.

In order not to break down unexpectedly on the highway or create a traffic jam in the city, make timely diagnostics of the car. Any malfunction is easier, faster, and cheaper to prevent than to eliminate. The simplest car diagnostics can be done with your own hands. In this article, we will tell you how to inspect your Ford, what to pay attention to and how often it should be done.

How to Conduct Diagnostics

Rule 1: Pre-Diagnostics

Every day, pay attention to the behavior of the car. If in motion there are extraneous noises, knocks, loss of steering, decreased dynamics, or increased fuel consumption – it is an occasion to check the condition of nodes and units of a car.

The dashboard is the primary diagnostic tool. On it, different pictograms give signals of systems malfunctions.

The presence, form, and combination of signal lamps differ depending on car brand and model, but there is one general rule – yellow lamps are of warning character, red ones signal about the critical malfunction. If a red light comes on while you’re driving, you should stop driving until the problem is corrected. Refer to your vehicle’s owner’s manual to see what the pictograms on your vehicle’s dashboard mean.

Watch your fuel consumption. If the car consumes more gasoline than usual without changing the driving style, it is an indirect sign of malfunction.

The reason for high consumption may be:

• Errors or malfunction of the electronic engine control system. Check engine” lights up on the move in the form of a yellow engine outline

• Clogged, the melted catalytic converter.

• Significant wheel alignment malfunction (camber).

• Malfunction of the brake system (jammed caliper, cylinder).

• Wear wheel hub bearings.

A slight increase in consumption is acceptable: in winter, when driving with a full load, when mounting roof rack, but not more than 15%.

Rule 2: Keep Diagnostic Intervals to A Minimum

Determine for yourself the intervals at which you plan to perform a full vehicle diagnosis. To set the optimal interval, you can use the method of certified service stations – diagnostics combined with routine maintenance to reduce the labor intensity and time to perform the work.

Self-diagnostics can be combined with oil changes and other works, which are performed after a certain mileage. An interval of 10-15 thousand kilometers is considered by many to be optimal.

Periodic diagnostics even without visible malfunctions will help you better control the condition of the car, plan in advance to spend on repairs and not be afraid for readiness for long journeys.

Rule 3: Keep an Eye on The Level of Technical Fluids

What to check:

• oil level in the engine

• oil level in the gearbox crankcase (automatic transmission), rear axle gearbox for rear-drive cars, transfer case for all-wheel-drive cars

• the fluid level in the power booster tank

• antifreeze level in the expansion tank or radiator

• brake fluid level in the hydraulic reservoir.

How to check:

The oil level in the engine and automatic transmission is the easiest. Under the hood, you need to find 2 dipsticks – yellow for the engine crankcase and red for the automatic transmission. Each dipstick needs to be pulled out, wiped dry, put back in, and pulled out again. There are minimum and maximum marks on the dipsticks to determine the level. The level is normal if the oil trace is between these marks.

Checking the Oil Level in The Car

Oil level in the crankcase gearbox and, if available – in the rear axle gearbox, transfer case: on the crankcases of these units you need to find the control plugs. In some models they can be hidden behind protective covers, it is necessary to remove them. Test plugs should be unscrewed and make sure that the oil is at the bottom edge of the hole. check this with your finger or any object, for example – a screwdriver. Tolerable drop in the level 1-2 mm. below the lip. If you can not find the control plugs, look at their location in the manual car. You can also find out there what tool is needed to unscrew them.

Rule 4: How to Look for The Place of Technical Liquid Leakage

It is not always possible to immediately identify a leaky spot. When the car is moving, oil or other fluids are scattered by air currents and during the inspection, you may see only a big spot on the surface of parts and assemblies. To pinpoint the exact location of the leak, clean the contaminated area and parts, start the engine, and observe the suspected leak locations as you go. Look for leaks by droplets of fresh oil, antifreeze, or other fluids.

Rule 5: Inspect Tires

Start by checking your car’s tires by checking their pressure. Insufficient or excessive pressure leads to premature tire wear, suspension malfunction, poor handling, and excessive gasoline consumption. Inspect the tread – there should be even worn all over the tire. If the inner or outer edge of the tire has less tread depth, you need to check the camber and suspension components.

How to Diagnose Suspension

What to check:

• ball joints

• steering knuckles

• stabilizer rods and bushings

• bushings

• shock absorbers

• shock absorber pads

How to check:

To check the ball joints, suspend the respective side of the car on a jack and place a stop under the lower suspension arm. Rock the wheel vertically with both hands – there must be no play, play, or knocking. To check the steering knuckle, swing the suspended wheel in a horizontal plane. Signs of failure are the same as with the ball – knock, play. Rubber dusters on the ball and steering tips must be intact, without rips or cracks.

Basic Rules of Self-Diagnostics

• Watch the behavior of the car every day, changes in operation may indicate a malfunction.

• Check all systems every 10-15 thousand km.

• Check the level of technical fluids.

• Falling levels indicate a leak or malfunction, find and fix it.

• Keep an eye on the tires, you can tell if there is a problem with the suspension.

• Check the suspension even if it doesn’t bother you while driving.

• Pay close attention to the brakes, it is important for safety.

• Check the operation of the lights and electrical circuits.

• Read errors in ECU, there is information about all electronics failures.

• Don’t forget about the body – corrosion is easier to prevent than to eliminate.

Bottom Line

It is important to understand that without professional equipment and qualification such checks can be considered superficial. To get a complete picture of the condition of the car, at least once a year pass in-depth diagnostics at the service station.

The post Top 5 Car Maintenance Tips to Keep your Ford at its Best appeared first on FLE Online.

Car enthusiasts have a unique interest in the Mercedes-Benz G-Class. There have been many other boxy SUVs around the world and some managed to survive past the 1980s as well. However, the “G Wagon” has not only done that but also had its popularity increase over the years. The main reason makes it all even more surprising: the most enjoyed version is the performance oriented G63 AMG.

Yes, people have developed the desire to see that large block of metal accelerate in a few seconds and that desire has reached the point of attracting the attention of many tuner companies around the world. While Brabus is usually the first one to come to our minds when we talk about Mercedes cars, the latest one to have joined this party is German Performmaster with what was named G805.

Wider, Better, Faster, Stronger

The external design features a redesigned radiator grille which is quite similar to the Brabus one available on Mercteil, only without the red accents and sporting Performmaster’s logo. There is also an exclusive front bumper with air intakes and a diffuser made of carbon fiber, a new hood with more imposing design, and new air intakes. The rear bumper received carbon-fiber sections, and the roofline now ends in a flashy spoiler made of – you guessed it – carbon fiber. But those are not the main features.

This tuning conversion is focused on the widebody kit, which is made with carbon-fiber extensions of the wheel arches that make the G-Class’s track 10 mm wider. That contributes to the aggressive appearance because it makes the model look more solid, planted on the ground. That is a clear step away from the typical SUV design and towards performance cars, just like enthusiasts like so much.

An Inviting Cabin

While Mercedes-Benz strives to dazzle customers with comfort and luxury on its traditional sedans, and with the futuristic environment of its brand new EQ lineup, the G-Class features a minimalistic, no-frills design: all the latest technologies are there, especially at the Mercedes-AMG steering wheel and its several capacitive controls, but everything is wrapped in a rugged style that once again evokes the 1980s. Performmaster made sure to improve the room without defacing it.

Your entrance will be greeted with the LED door sills, as it is usual for this SUV – Brabus is another tuner which loves to use those. Then, you will find that the seats have new Alcantara upholstery with leather trimmings. The final result is clearly different from the original G63 AMG’s cabin, but not to the point of characterizing a renovation; this tuning kit is focused on external modifications.

805 HP of Pure Tuned Power

Another key point of Performmaster’s project is the powertrain. The original 4.0-liter V8 engine was upgraded with a new tuning module and two new turbochargers. Now, the model makes 805 hp of power and 752 lb-ft of torque, which represent respective increases of 37.6% and 20% compared to the regular G63 AMG. The tuned model is named after the new power output, as you can imagine.

Now, considering what was mentioned in the beginning of this article, you can imagine that typical G-Class fans would never be satisfied with only seeing those performance figures. This tuning pack makes it go from 0 to 62 mph in 3.69 seconds, which is comparable to many coupés and roadsters, and reach the speed of 162 mph – and many owners will make sure to try and see those in practice.

You Can Have All That From Mercteil

While complete tuning kits like that are impressive on a news article, the truth is that they are not flexible and that may displease some drivers. For example, you may prefer a milder powertrain kit, a different style for the body kit, or even to install each component at a different moment to make the whole project more affordable. The only way to do that is resorting to a specialised parts store.

Mercteil is the best solution to that because of our huge catalogue: we can offer a Mercedes AMG steering wheel to give you a sense of performance driving, an AMG GT wide body kit in case you are not a G-Class enthusiast, and many other items. Feel free to browse that catalogue on our website and/or to contact us with all the technical questions you may have. We will be happy to help you!

The post Performmaster Reinvents The G-Class with Wide Body And 805 HP appeared first on FLE Online.

A change of season for the car owner is always a change of tires. It is convenient to time this event with the purchase of a new set, as well as some additional work with those wheels that will still serve you. The weather gives us a couple more weeks to prepare for shifting to “winter”. To make sure everything goes smoothly, we’ve prepared a few tips for you. We hope you will use them and make the right choice of tires.

1. How to store your tires between seasons: Important points

– Labeling your tires

Sign your tires with a marker or chalk, indicating which wheel each tire was on, e.g. LP – front left. At another season change, this will allow the tires to be reinstalled to avoid excessive wear on the carcass and tread.

– Clean the tires.

This is best done with a coarse brush, possibly with water. If the tire is already off the rim, it’s best not to use a pressure washer as this can damage the tire and cause tears and microcracks. At the same time clean the tread from small pebbles that deform the beads and lamellae. And most importantly, check it for stuck nails, pieces of wire and other things. Foreign bodies need to be carefully removed, and holes need to be patched immediately.

– Choosing a Storage Place

The storage location must be dry, clean and well ventilated. The optimum temperature for storage is +15 C, but a range of -30 to +30 C is acceptable. Humidity should be between 50-60%. Sports tires react sensitively to lower temperatures, so it is desirable to store such models at least -10°C. Rubber should not be exposed to direct sunlight, as UV light tends to age quickly. Do not keep near fuels and lubricants, chemicals and other volatile substances that can affect the composition of the rubber.

– Correct positioning

When storing on rims. Place on a flat surface stacked on top of each other (up to 4 per stack) with all tires pre-inflated so that they are not deformed. Do not put anything on top of the tires. You can also hang them vertically by the hole in the rim. Vertically in a row, e.g. on a shelf, mounted wheels can only be stored for a short time!!!

When storing without rims. The tires should be placed vertically on a flat surface and rotated at a small angle every 2-3 weeks so that no deformation occurs in the lower part of the tire.

– Do tyres have to be packed?

If you would like to keep your tires in their cases, they should be special textile cases. It is better not to pack tires in plastic bags, because condensation forms under the film, blocking air circulation, which is not very good for both the rubber and the metal carcass of the tire.

2. When do I “change” my shoes?

To put on winter tires. When the average daily temperature drops to +5 – +7 ° C, regardless of rain.

On summer tires. When night frosts stop and minimal daily temperature reaches at least +8 – +10 ° C.

The main thing to know and take into account: winter tires on warm asphalt are less dangerous than summer ones on ice and frozen roads.

3. How to understand that it is time to change the rubber?

The depth of tread pattern for summer tires should be at least 1.6 mm (this is according to traffic regulations, but in practice it is desirable to leave not less than 2-3 mm). For winter tires – the threshold is 4 mm. Some dealers, when selling tires, complete with a simple meter – a depth tester. In addition, many manufacturers equip their tires with special indicators – tread flats at the bottom of the tread grooves. They allow you to conveniently control the depth without the help of additional devices: when the tread has worn down to them, it means that wear is at its limit.

The presence of cuts or other noticeable damage to the tire is also a prerequisite for the replacement of the rubber for a new one. Theoretically, you can seal a cut up to 1 cm long, but it is better not to do it on high-speed cars. If there is a hernia on the tire sidewall or damage to the bead area near the rim, you must also prepare for tire replacement.

The post Right and inexpensive: how not to overpay when buying winter tires. appeared first on FLE Online.

Despite the tough stance of many respected industry experts, we venture to say that in Ukrainian winter conditions you may do with all-season tires. But, of course, not always and not everywhere.

Many drivers, planning to buy winter tires, not once wondered: maybe all-season tires? And there are quite a few situations where this question can be answered positively. But first we need to understand how all-season tires differ from winter tires.

Rubber compound. In “real” winter tires, the tread rubber is soft, and it remains so even in the cold. Because of this, it adheres more closely to ice microroughnesses, effectively squeezing moisture – melted tire ice – from the tread’s contact patch with the road. On warm asphalt such rubber has a low coefficient of traction, the tire may slip even with minor braking. Therefore, the rubber mixture of all-season tires is a compromise between winter and summer requirements. The disadvantages of this compromise in the “all-season” are manifested on ice and on clean, cold asphalt.

Tread pattern. Winter tires have, first of all, wide grooves between the pins to divert water and snow slush, and secondly, fine cuts on the pins – sipes for better traction on ice. All-season tires have these and other elements, but not as many as purely winter models. In addition, the Arctic type winter tires are characterized by developed checkers in the shoulder zone, i.e. “on the corner” between the tread and the sidewall. These elements facilitate driving in snowy ruts, but do not particularly interfere on asphalt. That’s why many all-season tires also have a relatively well-developed shoulder area.

The post “Winter” or “all-season” – help to choose appeared first on FLE Online.

The specialists of Special Interior Company from the Dutch city Dronten worked on this unusual truck under the name PFM for a year and a half. In this case, the company not only radically redesigned the interior of the truck, but also significantly extended its cabin. By the internal dimensions the sleeping compartment of this Mercedes-Benz Arocs is close to the living modules of the highway truck lords – the American bonneted trucks.

And now more about the truck. Externally it looks very similar to a flagship long haul truck with a three-beam star – the Actros model. Which is not surprising, because headlights for tuned truck was taken from the Actros. But the large-mesh radiator grille gives out the original origin – Arocs.

Recall that the Arocs range is designed specifically to work in difficult conditions, including in the construction and agrarian segments. The Arocs trucks are used as prime movers, and also as chassis for different superstructures – dump bodies, mixers, cranes and others.

In our case this was a five-axle chassis with an axle arrangement 10×4 – with two front driven, two driving axles and lifted and steered last axle. There is a crane behind the extended cab. The fact is that the truck decided to turn into an elite car hauler.

Moreover, it also received an exclusive biaxial trailer, made by a specialist Dutch company Pacton Trailers B.V. from Oommen.

The result is the real bomb. Outwardly the truck immediately attracts attention with an elongated cabin, spectacular silver coloring, including the grille with the company’s logo in charcoal black, as well as numerous chrome elements – protective bar under the bumper, “light” on the roof, etc.

But there are no painted mirror housings here, as the truck is equipped with company’s MirrorCam system – with cameras and monitors.

Getting in the cabin, you find yourself in another dimension. And it is not just increased interior dimensions. There is luxurious furniture and chairs, covered with black perforated leather with red stitching, and also the floor made of natural wood on the type of a yacht deck.

In the dark, the interior is decorated with a spectacular contour LED lighting – on the floor and back wall. And music lovers will love the luxurious acoustics.

The post Mercedes-Benz Arocs turned into a trucker’s paradise appeared first on FLE Online.